Snake Bite Immediate Action

This is a very timely topic.  These critters are just now begining to become active as the warm weather arrives.  Liza Howard's creds are great.  She is a NOLS instructor.  She blasts the common misperceptions found in cheap magazines and old books.

Snakebite First Aid on the Trails – Do’s, Don’ts, and Dry Bites

By Liza Howard 

Scenario: You’re running out at Hill Country State Natural Area training for the Cactus Rose 100. You’re on the Sotol Torture Trail near the Three Sisters when your left foot lands on this guy.

Or it could have been this guy.

It was hard to tell what brand he was because as soon he bit through your minimalist trail shoe, he disappeared under the Sotol.

You should:

A. Pull out your snake bite kit and suck the venom out

B. Fashion a constricting band out of your shoelace and tie it above the bite

C. Run back to the car and get ice out of your cooler and put it on the bite

D. Pull out your cell phone and call 911

E. Finish your training run, it was probably a dry bite and you need the miles

To read the rest of Liza's post go here.

The Natural Disaster Home Safety Guide

 Recently I was contacted by Jennifer Navid.  She wrote a fine post called the Natural Disasters Home Safety Guide.  This guide is a common sense approach to disaster planning due to events such as wildfire and flooding.

Jennifer Navid is a writer for Choice Home Warranty, a home protection company. She's passionate about helping people protect their financial welfare through disaster prevention and helped write this comprehensive guide on home safety.

Here is her post.

by Jennifer Navid

Natural disasters affect every area of America, and no home is immune to the threat of emergencies. These disasters can threaten your property, even your life. But there are simple steps you can take to protect your home and family in the event of an emergency. We’ll share expert tips for preparing your home to survive tornadoes, hurricanes, earthquakes, wildfires, and floods. Being prepared for natural disasters and emergencies can protect your property — and it just might save your life. Be ready by following our guide to natural disaster preparedness.

Emergency Preparedness Basics

For any emergency, you’ll need the basics: a plan and an emergency kit. Be ready for natural disasters with these tips that apply for any emergency.Every emergency calls for a different plan. Tornadoes and hurricanes, for example, require for a safe room. Homes prone to earthquakes might need seismic retrofitting, and families in flood-prone areas should know safe evacuation routes. 

To read the rest of Jennifer's post go here.

Magellan Echo Performance Watch Review

I just completed a review of the Magellan Echo smart watch.  This is a great piece of equipment for the hiker or athlete.


The Magellan Echo GPS watch is a light weight “smart sports running watch.” The Echo sports watch is linked to the user’s smart phone through a Bluetooth connection.  When connected, the watch will display data such as distance traveled, pace, and workout timing information. Further, the watch functionally controls music selections and app functions (e.g., start, stop, etc.)  Importantly, both the smart phone and Magellan Echo GPS watch must be worn by the user throughout the exercise event; phone and watch must be electronically tethered.


To read the rest of the review go here. 

Purchasing Your Next GPS

Looking for your next GPS - Here are a few suggestions

I was in a sporting goods store in and watched a clerk recommend a very expensive and complex Global Positioning System (GPS) to an elderly gentleman. The customer simply wanted a GPS that would “get him back to his camp in Oregon’s Ochocos National Forest during elk season. The clerk kept pushing the latest, high tech, touch screen and very expensive GPS receiver.

The customer would have been satisfied with a basic starter model, and it would have served him very well. Instead, he left the store very frustrated, without buying anything.

Buying your GPS receiver is a lot like shopping for your first car. You want reliability and simplicity in providing transportation from Point A to Point B. There are many outdoor opportunities that may impact what kind of GPS model suits your specific needs. As a hunter you need to shop intelligently. Here is what you need to know:

         Start with a quick education on common GPS terms, and why they’re important.

• Waypoints – These are your navigation coordinates that you have saved to memory within the GPS. Most receivers will hold 500. That said, you only need to keep a few on your GPS all the time. Use the free program at www.easygps.com to store the rest.
• Find/Go To – This is the navigation function of the receiver. It is this function that will “steer” you to your destination.
• Coordinates: This refers to a geographic grid system and pinpoints your position in the world. The most common is Latitude and Longitude though many outdoorsmen quickly shift to Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) because of its simplicity.
• Compass – An electronic counter-part to your magnetic compass. The GPS compass is dependent on batteries, like the rest of the system, so don't leave your magnetic compass at home.

Every GPS has these basic features. Anything additional are bells and whistles. It will be up to you to determine which ones are functionally important. For example, I am both a hunter and backpacker. I like a GPS with a Barometric altimeter because I use that function to monitor atmospheric pressure at high elevations. I know through personal experiences that when the pressure drops the weather is changing - I may be looking for shelter.

When looking to buy a GPS receiver consider the following:

• Decide how much you want to spend. If you don’t know what a GPS might cost, visit www.walmart.com and www.rei.com to get a good price baseline. Check the manufacturer’s web site (such as www.garmin.com) for rebate offers. Then research the web with for reviews on specific models.
• Ask friends with GPS’s what they use theirs for and what their recommendation would be. One size definitely doesn’t fit all! An avid geocacher would have different needs than a hunter. A hunter might opt for a model with a two way radio such as the Garmin Rino series.
• Older folks and those not “tech savvy” seem to do better with a GPS that has buttons on the front (GarminMap 62 series); it seems to be more intuitive. As an instructor, I've found that buttons along the side can become frustrating for people with less steady hands.

In the store, pick up the receiver, look at the controls and hold it as you would when using it.  Ask yourself: 

• Does it feel like a good fit?

• Can I read the buttons and comfortably push them?   (With gloves?)

• Is the screen size adequate? 

• Is the GPS simple or just too complex for me?

• Mapping programs are nice but expect to pay $100.00 or more.  Ask a friend with a GPS and see for yourself if the mapping is an asset for you.  Can you read what is presented on the screen or is it just clutter?

• Find out what the store’s return policy is on electronics and what their return rate is with various models. 

• Whatever you buy, hang on to that receipt and register the product soon after purchase.

 Once you buy a GPS:

• Keep fresh batteries in it.  Don’t put it in the closet, or store it in your survival kit. Take it out and use it; now.  You can’t break it,.
•  You should practice your GPS and map and compass skills often.  Your  wilderness land navigation skills could, given a bad turn of weather or situation, become  a matter of survival. 
•  Visit the manufacturers website once every six months or so.  The manufactures frequently offer free up-grades allowing the GPS’s internal software to run more efficiently.  It is usually a simple down load to make your GPS current.

A good way to learn is to take a class where you will learn the basics and how your receiver works.  Check with your local Community College’s continuing education program or Sporting Goods stores to see if they offer classes.

And don’t forget: a GPS is no substitute for a map and a quality compass and the knowledge of how to use them.  The most expensive GPS on the market is only as good as its batteries.  Anything electronic can fail and they do so at the most inconvenient time.

Potential for 9.0 Earthquake To Batter Pacific Coast

The following news article appeared in the LA Times on March 12.  It's another in the series of posts and articles about the Cascadia  fault system.

By Rong-Gong Lin II and Rosanna Xia

March 12, 2014, 6:22 p.m.

If a 9.0 earthquake were to strike along California's sparsely populated North Coast, it would have a catastrophic ripple effect.

A giant tsunami created by the quake would wash away coastal towns, destroy U.S. 101 and cause $70 billion in damage over a large swath of the Pacific coast. More than 100 bridges would be lost, power lines toppled and coastal towns isolated. Residents would have as few as 15 minutes notice to flee to higher ground, and as many as 10,000 would perish.

To read the complete post go here.

Garmin 64s Review

The Garmin GPSMap 64s is reviewed at GPStracklog.com


When the Garmin GPSMAP64s was announced this winter, I was pretty excited. The older 62s is my go-to handheld, and I was psyched to see new features like GLONASS, smart notifications and preloaded geocaches. So let’s take a closer look at them…

To read the rest of the post go here.

Free Topo Maps Online

Maps by Gmap4.

Gmap4 is the free online mapping tool that I use for planning hike, backpacking, and bushwhacking trips. I like it because it has some of the most accurate digital maps available online and lets me rapidly compare different maps from several different sources. That is probably the most important feature for me because so many free and commercial digital online maps are so out of date, a problem I’ve written about previously. Being able to compare older ‘historic’ maps, aerial and satellite images, and up-to-date digital maps in one tool helps me determine the best route for my hikes. (I still refer to local printed maps, which are still the most up to date, but harder to plan a route with). 

To read the rest of sectionhikers post go here.

GPS Tips - Before You Go

A GPS training web site that I keep my eye on is GPSTraining.  These folks have a lot of great info on how to use your GPS receiver.

Before you go - our top tips.
1) Clear Trip Data at the point you start your trip – to ensure that your trip data relates only to your current trip you must clear your trip data at the start of your trip (not at home then drive to the start of your trip) as the moment your clear the trip computer starts logging data again and could include trip & track data that includes your journey from home to the start of your trip.
In GPS > from the Main Menu > select Setup > Reset > Reset Trip Data > Reset

2) Clear Track Data – like trip data once cleared track data immediately re-commences if the GPS is active (logged onto satellites) so the golden rule is to clear track data at the start of your trip and save at the end of your trip this way your track log will become the most accurate record of your trip and can be imported to your favourite computer software to review your performance.
In GPS > from the Main Menu > select Setup > Reset > Clear Current Track > Clear

To read and download their info, go here.

Power For Your GPS

In 13 years of teaching GPS classes I have had very, very few reports of a GPS breaking or failing electronically but I do hear about battery power draining at the worst time.

I’d offer a few suggestions:

•  Batteries will generally last for a reported 20 hours of continuous use; more on that shortly.  If you just turn it on, mark a waypoint and turn the receiver off the batteries will last you most of the hunting season.

• I like the Duracell and COSTCO alkaline batteries. 

•  If your GPS can use Lithium batteries that is great.  They are more expensive but they last longer and work better in cold temperatures; check your owner’s manual. 

•  I keep my GPS powered up all day when in the backcountry.  I like to download my track and waypoint data at the end of a hunt to my Terrain Navigator software. (This gives me the best historical record of my outing.)  I dump the batteries back at camp each evening.  Usually my batteries become drained after a full day and it just simpler to change them out as I get my gear ready for the next day’s hunt.  I don’t want to worry about dead batteries during the next day’s hunt.

• Keep a spare set of AA batteries in your pack.  I recommend storing the batteries in the paper box that the Duracell’s come in or in the plastic wrapper that the COSTCO batteries come in.

•  I keep fresh batteries in my GPS all the time.  I am reading more frequently that this is no longer needed.  That said, because of my SAR responsibilities and the frequency of my trips, fresh batteries are always loaded.  It’s my personal preference that “works for me.”

• I don’t have a baseline for rechargeable batteries.  My suggestion would be to keep extra’s on hand and really “wring them out” over a full day to see how well they work. Do this before your trip afield.   Remember, it has to work for you.

•  Features such as the backlight, audible tones and electronic compasses drain a set of batteries.  On many models the electronic compass can be turned off by pressing and holding down the page button.  Manage your power needs.

A fully charged GPS is a wonderful tool that complements your backcountry experience.  Remember, even though you have the latest and best receiver, you always take that map and compass on every trip. 

Orienting a Topograhic Map

“Orienting the map visually (or with the greater precision afforded by a compass) connects hikers to their surroundings, helps them see the larger picture, and their place in it.  Hikers who nurture this habit are usually both safer and more appreciative of the places they’re exploring.”

From the book Staying Found by June Fleming

Orienting a map is a starting point to identify where I am, where I want to go and where I have been.

 I orient my topographic map (topo) before I leave the trail head and at regular intervals during a hike.

It is a process where I involve both map and compass.  Of course, orienting a map can be done without a compass and done visually.  I find using a compass takes just a tad more time and the more hands on time with the compass the better. 

Correctly orienting my map allows me to get “dialed in” to my surroundings.  It is a process where I align the map, compass and GPS to the terrain before me.
This orientation procedure is a great opportunity to involve young people in backcountry navigation.  Give them a quick review of topo basics and your plan before starting out.

A topo is your key to the backcountry.  It unlocks the critical information regarding sources of water, woodlands, trails, roads, grid information and elevation.  I use a US Geologic Survey (USGS) map at the scale of the map should be 1:24,000.  (National Geographic has superb topos of the National Parks and you may find quality maps of this scale of the area you will travel in.)  Quality outdoor, printing and mapping stores will have such a map available.  While you get comfortable with a hard copy paper map, experiment with map software (www.mytopo.com) or internet sites that offer free maps (www.mappingsupport.com.)  Aerial imagery such as Google Earth (www.google.com/earth/index.html) compliments the topo.
A great reference for navigating a topo is the book “Staying Found” by June Fleming.   It’s available at many bookstores and is likely at the local library.

Moving on to the compass, I recommend backcountry travelers use a declination adjustable compass such as the Brunton 8010G, Silva Ranger or a Suunto M2. Declination is the angular difference between true north and magnetic north.    A declination adjustable compass keeps things simple.  For example, a compass adjusted to degrees true will match the same orientation as the map; all in degrees true.

Declination data can be found in the diagram at the bottom of the USGS topo, (on some commercially produced maps you really have to look for this information.)  I recommend that map declination information be verified at www.magnetic-declination.com.   This is essential in the Pacific Northwest where maps are notoriously out of date in terms of road, city and some trail data.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, I adjust the compass for declination.  If your declination is east, observe the orienting arrow (on a Brunton 8010G) rotate in a clockwise direction.  If declination is westerly adjust counter clockwise.

To correctly orient my topo, I lay the baseplate (edge of the compass) on the border of the topo; below.  Use the map’s eastern or western border.  I then turn my body (while holding the map and compass) until the map points to true north; the red magnetic needle will be on top of the orienting arrow.  (Remember, maps are laid out in degrees true.) Now both the topo and compass will be oriented to true north.

At this point, I evaluate the topographic features of the map and compare it to the terrain in front of me.  Identification of features such as buttes, mountains, waterways and the relationship between feature and map are very important.  I make a point to visually reconcile what I see with the map.

I do it two ways.

First, correlate from topo map to the terrain.  Using the Cascade Mountain range as an example, from the trail head I should see the South Sister summit to the northwest.  Second, correlate from terrain to the map.  An example would be to observe Broken Top to the north east and then determine if that observation matches the map.

If this relationship cannot be made then I delay forward movement.  I want to be as dialed in as the compass.  This can be difficult in bad weather with limited visibility.  In such a situation I’ll check my GPS, verify and plot my position on the map.  I may resort to dead reckoning as I proceed.  To be certain, I plot my position more frequently.  Further, I’ll identify large terrain features that will become my “backcountry handrails.”  (Handrails can include roads, railroad beds, ridgelines, power transmission lines and streams.)   If possible, I’ll talk to others on the trail to learn of their observations and recent experience.

I always try to preload map software loaded into my GPS receiver. I can compare this information with that of my map.  First, I’ll set-up my receiver to report compass information in degrees true; matching my topo and compass.  Now I compare my GPS to my map and terrain.

Now that you have oriented your map, compass and GPS you have completed an important first step in land navigation and are ready to head out.

Ultra Light Backpacking Stoves

The following is a nice review by sectionhiker.com of the various types of stoves for the hiker.

Lightweight and ultralight backpackers have a lot of different options available when it comes to picking an ultralight backpacking and camping stove. Here are the pros and cons of using alcohol stoves, canister stoves, solid fuel stoves, wood stoves, and just going stoveless.

Alcohol Stoves

Alcohol stoves are popular with ultralight backpackers and thru-hikers because they burn denatured alcohol, which is inexpensive and widely available, particularly in small towns that don’t have an outdoor outfitter that  sells more specialized camping stove fuel. For cooking, alcohol stoves are best used for boiling water which is added to dehydrated freezer bag meals or Mountainhouse style camping meals, although some alcohol stoves are available with simmer rings that enable you to cook more complex meals. The downside of using an alcohol stove is that it is very sensitive to wind and must be used with a windscreen which can be awkward to pack. Alcohol fuel is also less efficient than most other types of fuel and it takes a relatively long tome to boil two cups of water (7-10 minutes).

My two cents:  Once lit and alcohol stove can not be safely moved - my opinion.

To read the rest of Philip's post go here.

Solar Flares

Good article about the issues surrounding a solar flare.

By RICK MONTGOMERY

The Kansas City Star

When the sun got ornery in 1859, American telegraph operators saw sparks fly.

A huge solar flare belched a cloud of charged particles into Earth’s path. But other than frying telegraph lines, the electromagnetic collision caused little stir in the world.

Nobody back then had yet switched on a decent light bulb, much less charged an iPhone.

Yet the sun hasn’t changed its ways, and that worries University of Kansas physicist Adrian Melott, among others. If the remnants of a similar solar flare struck the planet today?

To read the complete post go here.

GPS Waypoints

Managing your waypoints isn't hard to do.  But one simple step gets you on your way!

I really like to keep my navigation simple.

Simplicity now makes life a lot easier when a potentially bad situation occurs or when someone in your party is injured. 

Before leaving home I "dump the junk" or get rid of those old, meaningless waypoints.  At the trail head I'll reset the "trip computer" and the track log (the bread crumb trail.)

On the trail I always verify that a waypoint has been saved.  Verification is a simple step that has saved my bacon more than once.

Waypoint List

When it's time to return to camp or home, there is nothing more unnerving to find that the waypoint you need isn't on your waypoint list.  In the illustration to the right, the waypoint to "home" isn't there.

It is easy to make this mistake.  Perhaps after executing the waypoint function you hit the OK button or you selected another option without saving "home" to file/memory.



My recommendation is to verify by selecting/depressing the "find" button (Garmin) and then selecting "waypoints" to view the waypoint list (figure above.)  If home appears you are ready to go.

Map Page 

Another quick way to verify is to go to the "map page."  First zoom in to about 800 feet or to a zoom setting where you can see waypoint names on the screen.

Verifying a waypoint will save you a lot of angst and worry later.